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ORLANDO , a quiet farming town in 1970, now has more visitors than any other place in the state. The reason, of course, is Walt Disney World , which, along with Universal Studios Escape, Sea World and a host of themed attractions, pulls more than 25 million people a year to a previously featureless plot of scrubland. Few people head to Orlando proper, choosing instead one of the countless motels along Hwy-192 , fifteen miles south, or International Drive , five miles southwest. Despite enormous expansion over the last decade, the town itself remains free of the commercialism that surrounds it.

Though you'll probably be so exhausted from a long day at the parks that boozing and boogying with thousands of others will be the last thing on your mind, the Orlando area is just bursting with themed nightspots of every persuasion, from medieval banquets to piano bars and country and western clubs. It's all relentless good, clean fun, sanitized to the hilt.

From around 9pm, each Walt Disney World park holds some kind of closing-time bash, usually involving fireworks and fountains. There's also Pleasure Island , exit 26B off I-4 (in the Disney Village Marketplace), a remake of an abandoned island, whose pseudo-warehouses are the setting for shops, themed bars and nightclubs (daily 10am-7pm; after 7pm $21 gains access to all bars and clubs). The most enjoyable are the Comedy Warehouse and the Adventurers' Club , loosely based on a 1930s gentlemen's club. Take ID and a fat wallet.

In a similar vein, in downtown Orlando at 129 W Church St, the restored Victorian buildings of Church Street Station enclose a mall-like cluster of restaurants, bars, clubs and shows with a vaguely Old South theme (daily 11am-2am; after 6pm $19 gains access to all bars and clubs).

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